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Chehalem Hills Oregon Celebration taps best pinot noirs BY LAURIE
DANIEL Wine Column McMINNVILLE, Ore. -- Every summer, about 600 people gather here to drink a toast to pinot noir. The occasion is called the International Pinot Noir Celebration, and there are indeed producers from around the world. This year, eight countries -- the United States, France, Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, Germany and Switzerland -- were represented. But the IPNC also provides an important stage for the Oregon producers who dedicate heart, soul and financial resources to the pursuit of making wine from one of the world's most finicky and maddening grapes. Pinot noir is a grape that is difficult to grow and requires gentle handling in the winery. Pinot noir can be truly wretched, but drinking an outstanding one can be a transcendent experience. McMinnville is in the northern Willamette Valley, southwest of Portland, and ground zero for Oregon pinot noir. Oregon pinot producers are fond of saying that the region is at about the same latitude as Burgundy, land of the greatest pinot noirs. That's significant because the northern latitude results in long days during the growing season but shorter days during the time when the grapes go through their final ripening. Vintners say this results in grapes that are physiologically ripe, with complex flavors, without being too high in sugar. (High sugars result in higher alcohol in the wine.) Like Burgundy, Oregon can be a marginal area for ripening grapes. The weather is relatively cool; in northern Oregon, many vineyards are planted on south-facing slopes to help ensure ripening. And early fall rains can ruin a promising vintage. Nature has been good to Oregon wine in recent years, though, resulting in a string of good vintages -- 1998, 1999 and 2000. Vintners at the IPNC poured their 1998 or 1999 pinots, and I had the opportunity to taste some 2000 wines from the barrel, as well. The 1998 vintage was quite warm, resulting in pinots with a lot of sexy fruit. Some of the wines lack the structure necessary for aging, but they're delicious to drink now. The 1999 growing season was cooler and longer, capped by a warm fall. The wines tend to be more complex and tannic, with more elegant fruit. But quite a few of them have some herbaceous notes -- not necessarily a bad thing in small amounts, especially when you drink the wine with food. Many of the wines will reward cellaring. As for 2000, most winemakers I talked to put its growing conditions somewhere between the two previous vintages. Barrel samples certainly are promising, but the wines are a long way from being finished. Though the IPNC is something of an Oregon showcase, the star of this year's proceedings was Lalou Bize-Leroy, who presented three of her grand cru Burgundies and described her use of biodynamic agriculture. Biodynamic farming is a complex philosophy that combines the principles of organic viticulture with a reliance on factors such as the stars and the phases of the moon. Bize-Leroy's Domaine Leroy wines are considered among the best in Burgundy and cost hundreds of dollars a bottle. And though there were a number of people in the audience (myself included) who were skeptical about biodynamism, there was no question that what's in the bottle is extraordinary. The 1999 Corton Renardes is very rich, with pure, ripe raspberry fruit, some spice and a silky texture. The 1999 Clos de la Roche (my favorite) is powerful and intense, with blackberry and black currant flavors, firm but ripe tannins and a velvety texture. It's the perfect example of the iron fist in a velvet glove, a metaphor often used to describe stellar red Burgundy. Finally, the 1999 Latricieres Chambertin was big and rich, with blackberry and raspberry, a supple texture, and depth and power that sneak up on you. The wines will be released this winter. The IPNC attracts
consumers as well as people in the wine trade. It's so popular that
admission is decided by a lottery. To receive an application for next
year, call (800) 775-4762 or go to www.ipnc.org. |